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	<title>Model Boat Building</title>
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		<title>Model Subs &#8211; How does the model get the radio signal</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/03/02/model-subs-how-does-the-model-get-the-radio-signal/</link>
		<comments>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/03/02/model-subs-how-does-the-model-get-the-radio-signal/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Mar 2008 17:54:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Balasts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Radio nSignal Control]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Radio Signal Control]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sumarines]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[How does the model get the radio signal when its underwater? We aren’t worried about the technical details. We do know the radio signal penetrates fresh water as deep as most people are willing to take their boats. Heavy chlorine content in a swimming pool will limit the signal depth depending on signal strength and [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=9&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How does the model get the radio signal<br />
when its underwater?<br />
We aren’t worried about the technical details.<br />
We do know the radio signal penetrates<br />
fresh water as deep as most people are willing<br />
to take their boats. Heavy chlorine content<br />
in a swimming pool will limit the signal<br />
depth depending on signal strength and<br />
frequency.<br />
Salt water is pretty well impenetrable given<br />
the typical low power and relatively<br />
high-frequency of the R/C units. Crafty sub<br />
modelers have figured out ways to run their<br />
boats in salt water by allowing the radio<br />
receiver’s antenna to remain above the surface.<br />
How do<br />
you see<br />
the sub<br />
or tell<br />
what<br />
its<br />
doing?<br />
In murky water, we sub drivers spend a lot<br />
of time at periscope depth and on the surface,<br />
with short, shallow dives. In clear water,<br />
especially where you can see the bottom,<br />
the models look great underwater. Unlike<br />
a “target” (surface boat in sub-speak),<br />
subs offer that important 3rd dimension to<br />
give some extra excitement. There are also<br />
electronic and mechanical devices available<br />
from several manufacturers to help your<br />
model maintain depth and trim (tilt or level<br />
of the sub.)<br />
How much do they cost?<br />
How much do you want to spend?<br />
A basic, complete beginner sub starts around<br />
$200 and is designed for the backyard pool.<br />
Kits for more functionally capable subs begin<br />
around US$350. For a kit sub, you’ll<br />
also need radio,<br />
batteries,<br />
speed control,<br />
paint,<br />
adhesive s ,<br />
and any accessories<br />
that<br />
you may<br />
want. Figure<br />
on $700 -<br />
$800 by the<br />
time you<br />
have your<br />
sub in the water. Large scale sub kits can<br />
cost as much as $1,500 without radio, but<br />
remember, the real things start at about half<br />
a billion and go up from there. So model<br />
subs are a pretty good value!<br />
How do you<br />
keep the<br />
water out?<br />
Model subs,<br />
just like the<br />
real ones,<br />
have a watertight<br />
and<br />
pressure resistant<br />
compartment<br />
(pressure<br />
hull)<br />
where all the stuff that hates water (motor,<br />
radio, etc.) lives. The parts of the model<br />
that don’t have to be dry are free-flooding,<br />
with holes or slots to allow the water in and<br />
out. Of course, you need to get inside the<br />
pressure hull for assembly and servicing.<br />
Plus, the mechanical connections to operate<br />
the rudders and diving planes need to<br />
get out. These openings in the pressure hull<br />
are typically sealed with o-rings and gaskets.<br />
Some models use custom-fitted hand built<br />
pressure hulls, but nowadays a lot of hobbyists<br />
use commercially available, manufactured<br />
units called WTCs or Water Tight Cylinders.<br />
How do they go under water?<br />
There are two basic ways that model subs<br />
dive: dynamic and static. Dynamic boats<br />
dive by the use of forward motion and angle<br />
on the diving planes. When the model<br />
stops, the boat floats back to the surface<br />
which can be a decided advantage when<br />
there is a failure of the battery or other<br />
equipment! The disadvantage is that the<br />
speed required to submerge, is much faster<br />
than scale (realistic speed).<br />
Static divers actually take water into compartments<br />
called ballast tanks to increase<br />
their weight or reduce their buoyancy. They<br />
are just like the above described dynamic<br />
models only much easier to control under<br />
water: The model can dive at a slower, more<br />
scale speed. Many static boats can take on<br />
enough water to allow them to sink statically,<br />
without forward motion and actually<br />
hover at a fixed depth!<br />
OK, now the boat is sinking, how does it<br />
come back up?<br />
Sinking is such an ugly word! We prefer to<br />
say “diving,” thank you. With a dynamic<br />
diver, you reduce throttle and/or elevate the<br />
dive planes. As the model slows, it will rise<br />
or by elevating the planes the boat surfaces<br />
due to the motion of the water! Static boats<br />
either pump the water out of the ballast<br />
tanks, or blow it out with some form of compressed<br />
gas.<br />
How deep can they go?<br />
In fresh water, the depth is limited by the<br />
strength of the pressure hull and the<br />
operator’s nerves. Typically, most model<br />
subs never get below 10-15 feet. Certainly<br />
some models have gone much deeper than<br />
this.<br />
Torpedoes?<br />
Absolutely!<br />
But unarmed<br />
of course.<br />
Larger model<br />
subs launch<br />
t o r p e d o e s<br />
AND missiles<br />
using the<br />
same sort of<br />
compressed<br />
gas that blows the model submarine’s ballast<br />
tanks.<br />
What happens if it doesnt come back up?<br />
Many model subs have fail-safe systems<br />
incorporated into their construction. These<br />
can range from sophisticated electronic devices<br />
that actuate an emergency ballast system<br />
to mechanical weights that are dropped<br />
to allow the boat to float to the surface.<br />
Otherwise, you either go swimming or hire<br />
a diver.<br />
How fast do they go?<br />
Most will move along at about walking<br />
speed, with some of the smaller modern<br />
shapes getting close to 10 mph.<br />
An entry level R/C sub like<br />
this SubTech Albacore can<br />
cost about $500 &#8211; $700<br />
depending on accessories.<br />
Most model subs use a<br />
watertight compartment or<br />
“WTC” to keep the radio and<br />
operating gear dry.<br />
If your sub doesn’t surface you have to be<br />
prepared to write it off or go for a swim!<br />
This torpedo is being fired<br />
from a model submarine!</p>
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			<media:title type="html">howardelliot</media:title>
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		<item>
		<title>Building a LEGO ROV Using the MindStorms Robotics Kit</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/08/building-a-lego-rov-using-the-mindstorms-robotics-kit/</link>
		<comments>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/08/building-a-lego-rov-using-the-mindstorms-robotics-kit/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jan 2008 17:16:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Building a Lego Boat]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[1 Building a LEGO ROV Using the MindStorms Robotics Kit Amos G. Winter, Tufts University Mentors: Paul McGill, Bill Kirkwood Summer 2001 Keywords: LEGO, ROV, MindStorms, RCX ABSTRACT This paper discusses the design and creation of a Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) that runs off the LEGO RCX and is primarily made out of standard LEGO [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=8&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>1<br />
Building a LEGO ROV Using the MindStorms Robotics Kit<br />
Amos G. Winter, Tufts University<br />
Mentors: Paul McGill, Bill Kirkwood<br />
Summer 2001<br />
Keywords: LEGO, ROV, MindStorms, RCX<br />
ABSTRACT<br />
This paper discusses the design and creation of a Remotely Operated Vehicle<br />
(ROV) that runs off the LEGO RCX and is primarily made out of standard LEGO<br />
components. With the power of the RCX, the ROV has the ability to collect data and<br />
control itself autonomously. It is simple enough to construct that it has the possibility of<br />
being used as a classroom project. Furthermore, it is a prototype for a new LEGO kit<br />
which could be produced as a model of MBARI’s (the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research<br />
Institute) real ROV Tiburon.<br />
INTRODUCTION<br />
Three years ago LEGO introduced a new line of kits, called “MindStorms,” that<br />
focused on robotics. At the heart of these kits is the RCX, a completely programmable<br />
LEGO “brick” with three power outputs and three sensor inputs. LEGO produces a<br />
variety of sensors to attach to the inputs and three different kinds of motors, as well as<br />
lights for connection to the power outputs. The RCX runs off six AA batteries, enabling it<br />
2<br />
to deliver 9 Volts (each battery 1.5V, hooked in series) to the motors. It can also be run<br />
off a 120V outlet with a 120VAC to 12VAC converter.<br />
Figure 1: RCX<br />
The RCX is programmed through IR (infrared). The IR is sent from a tower<br />
hooked up to a computer and received by the RCX through its IR receivers. There are a<br />
variety of programming languages that can be used with the RCX. These including<br />
LEGO’s own program which they sell with MindStorms, Not Quite C, and ROBOLAB<br />
which is sold with LEGO’s educational robotics kits. ROBOLAB is ideal for this project<br />
because the programming is graphically based instead of text based. This enables<br />
children who are not able to read to use it. ROBOLAB is also based on LabVIEW, a<br />
powerful data acquisition program, and retains many of LabVIEW’s capabilities.<br />
Although the MindStorms kit is a wonderful way to teach kids about robotics, it is<br />
limited to a dry environment, such as a classroom floor. The current kit is not capable of<br />
going underwater, and the components would be quickly destroyed if they got wet. This<br />
limitation gave rise to the project of developing an underwater LEGO ROV. By making a<br />
3<br />
new LEGO kit that allows the RCX to be used underwater, many new possibilities open<br />
up for MindStorms.<br />
MBARI is interested in developing a LEGO ROV because the kit could be sold as<br />
an educational toy through the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Furthermore, the LEGO ROV<br />
could be modeled after Tiburon, MBARI’s in house designed, real ROV. Tiburon would<br />
provide advertising for the kit, which would be good publicity for the Aquarium and<br />
MBARI.<br />
The main goal of the project was to first and foremost develop a LEGO ROV that<br />
ran off the RCX. Furthermore, the ROV was to be a prototype for a new LEGO kit to be<br />
used in conjunction with MindStorms. The kit had to keep as many LEGO components<br />
unchanged as possible. It would include waterproof motors, waterproof sensors, and a<br />
tether to connect these components to a control box that worked with the RCX. This way<br />
the ROV could be controlled manually, autonomously by the RCX, or using a<br />
combination of both. The ROV also had to retain simplicity in its construction as to leave<br />
open the possibility of it being built as a classroom project. All its non LEGO parts had to<br />
be made from easily attainable materials and built using common tools.<br />
MATERIALS AND METHODS<br />
MOTORS<br />
The RCX is capable of outputting a maximum of 700mA and 9V through each of<br />
its power outputs. This translates into 6.3 Watts, which is a very small amount of power.<br />
Because of this limited power supply, LEGO manufactured motors are the most efficient<br />
to use for the ROV because they are already rated for such a low power level.<br />
4<br />
Additionally, if LEGO decides to produce the ROV as a kit in the future, they already<br />
have the motors in production. The motors used for the project can be purchased from<br />
LEGO’s educational distributor, www.pitsco.com.<br />
Figure 2: LEGO motor used<br />
The motors are waterproofed through a similar method as described in the book<br />
Build Your Own Underwater Robot, by Harry Bohm and Vickie Jensen. First, the motor<br />
is taken out of the LEGO casing. Next, an APS film canister is used as the motor housing.<br />
A hole, slightly smaller than the shaft size, is drilled in it using a #49 drill. After sealing<br />
up all the holes in the motor with either tape or hot glue, Vaseline is packed around the<br />
shaft. When the motor is pressed into the housing, the Vaseline is spread out on the inside<br />
face, making the seal through which the shaft passes. Because the Vaseline layer is so<br />
thin and tightly packed between the face of the motor and the inside face of the housing,<br />
and because the hole in the housing makes a snug fit around the shaft, a sufficient seal is<br />
made. The rest of the motor housing cavity is filled with 3M Scotchcast which hardens<br />
into a dense rubber. An APS film canister fits into LEGO dimensions perfectly, so a<br />
LEGO motor brace is easily built around the motor to make it LEGO compatible.<br />
5<br />
Figure 3: Waterproof Motor Setup Figure 4: Finished Waterproof Motor in LEGO brace<br />
PROPULSION<br />
Remote control model boat props are used to propel the ROV. The props are<br />
called “3/16” Drive Dog Props” and can be found at the hobby supplier http://hobbylobby.<br />
com. These props are used because they are very cheap ($1.05 to $1.30 each), work<br />
much better than cropped airplane propellers (the props suggested in “Build Your Own<br />
Underwater Robot”), and glue perfectly onto LEGO axels. With one motor connected to<br />
one prop, the size “3” prop is the most efficient to use. With one motor connected to two<br />
props, size “2” is the most efficient.<br />
Figure 5: Prop Glued onto LEGO Axel<br />
A serious problem encountered while developing the ROV was getting enough<br />
vertical thrust to push it underwater. The solution is to put two outrigger thrusters on the<br />
6<br />
sides of the ROV where the water flow is much less restricted. One motor runs both<br />
vertical propellers. To reduce power loss in the drive train caused by the churning of the<br />
surrounding water, small 45o bevel gears are used. These gears work very well because<br />
they don’t have teeth that extend outside the face of the gear, thus the teeth don’t paddle<br />
the water as much as other LEGO gears. They are also made for 90o turns in the drive<br />
train. For the horizontal thrusters, two motors, each with a prop directly connected, are<br />
mounted on the back of the ROV. This way, to move the ROV forwards, the motors both<br />
spin forwards. To move backwards, both motors spin backwards, and to turn, the motors<br />
spin in opposite directions. With this configuration, the ROV is capable of moving in<br />
three dimensions.<br />
Figure 6: Thruster Configuration Figure 7: Close-up of Vertical<br />
Thruster and Bevel Gears<br />
7<br />
To try to further increase the efficiency of the vertical thrusters, ducted props<br />
were designed and constructed. The thruster housings have the exact dimensions of an<br />
8X8X4 (LXWXH) LEGO cube. They also have a ledge around the outside so that<br />
LEGOs can be attached and built around them. The #2 “Drive Dog Prop” fits within the<br />
housing, with the LEGO axel going through two bracing holes. The housing is made of<br />
two pieces that press fit together. Its semi-circular shape helps capture the unique contour<br />
of Tiburon’s foam pack, if it were to be used in a Tiburon kit.<br />
Figure 8: Solid Works Drawing of Thruster Housing<br />
UNDERWATER SENSORS<br />
The RCX reads sensors by sending out 5V and then reading the voltage drop over<br />
the sensor. The resulting voltage goes into a 10 bit A/D converter, so 0V = 0, 5V = 1023.<br />
In order for the ROV to be able to collect data or react to its environment, it needs<br />
sensors. Temperature and pressure sensors are important to include in order to collect<br />
data. A light sensor fills the third sensor port on the RCX so the ROV can react to<br />
changes in light, as in the case of getting too close to a wall.<br />
8<br />
The standard LEGO temperature sensor is easily adapted to the ROV because it is<br />
already waterproofed. It has the ability to read –20oC to 50oC in increments of 0.01, or<br />
the equivalent temperatures in Fahrenheit, as specified in the program.<br />
The standard LEGO light sensor can be made waterproof by drilling small holes<br />
in the bottom, and then injecting 3M Scotchcast through a syringe into them. The<br />
Scotchcast covers the small circuit board inside and fills in the gap between the circuit<br />
board and the sensor housing, making a seal. In ROBOLAB, light sensor reads a 0 to 100<br />
scale; 0 being total dark, 100 being total light.<br />
Figure 9: Bottom of Light Sensor, Showing Scotchcast Injection Holes<br />
The pressure sensor is the most difficult sensor to make because LEGO does not<br />
currently produce one. The circuit design used is adapted from an air pressure sensor<br />
found at http://www.alynk.com/usr/gasperi/pressure.htm. In ROBOLAB, the pressure<br />
sensor is programmed as a light sensor, so it reads 0 to 100 counts. The water pressure<br />
sensor design differs from one on the internet in that a 75k instead of a 100k resistor is<br />
used as the gain for the second op-amp. This does is makes the sensor read 5 counts at the<br />
water surface instead of 0, so an immediate change is seen as the ROV submerges. The<br />
water sensor also differs from the air sensor in that it uses a 15 psi gage sensor instead of<br />
a 30 psi max differential sensor. This way the pressure sensor is ideal for use up to one<br />
9<br />
atmosphere (14.7 psi) which translates to 33.9 feet under water. The 15psi gage sensor<br />
can be ordered directly from its manufacturer, Lucus Novasensor, by calling 800-962-<br />
7346. The part number for the sensor is: NPC-410-015G-3L.<br />
Figure 10: Circuit Diagram of Pressure Sensor<br />
The sensor is waterproofed by casting it in 3M Scotchcast, leaving only the<br />
pressure tube (which comes waterproof) exposed. LEGOs are used to make the mold for<br />
the Scotchcast in order to keep the sensor in LEGO dimensions. To enable the sensor to<br />
attach to other LEGOs, two LEGO plates are left bonded into the Scotchast<br />
Figure 11: Pressure Sensor Circuit Board Figure 12: Sealed, Finished Pressure Sensor<br />
10<br />
CONTROL<br />
In manual operation, the RCX delivers a constant 9V to each of its power outputs,<br />
and the ROV’s motors are controlled by switching the current flow with Double Pole<br />
Double Throw (DPDT) rocker switches. When the rocker switch is in its neutral position,<br />
no current flows. When it is switched forward, the current flows and the motor turns<br />
forwards. When the DPDT switch is switched backward, the poles are reversed, resulting<br />
in the current flowing backwards, making the motors turn backwards. Additionally, in<br />
each motor’s control circuit is a manual override Double Pole Single Throw (DPST)<br />
switch to give the RCX direct control of the motor. With this switch, autonomous control<br />
can be turned on and off for each motor individually, so the operator has the option of the<br />
RCX controlling one function while another function is controlled manually. One<br />
application of this ability would be the ROV hovering. The RCX would monitor the<br />
pressure and adjust the vertical thrusters while the operator could still manually drive in<br />
the horizontal plane.<br />
Figure 13: Circuit Diagram of Motor Control Switches<br />
11<br />
The general control box design is a container for the RCX that is held with two<br />
hands on either side. The top has the two horizontal motor control switch sets in reach of<br />
the thumbs in addition to three subroutine switches. Each subroutine switch hooks<br />
directly into one of the sensor inputs, and so when it is tripped it shorts out that input. In<br />
the ROBOLAB program a shorted input will return the max value of the sensor<br />
programmed to be hooked up to that input. When that max value is reached, the program<br />
can be triggered to do a task. This makes it possible for a manual switch to run a<br />
subroutine. The front of the box has the connection to the tether as well as the vertical<br />
motor control switch set which is in reach of the index fingers. Additionally the box has<br />
an AC adapter input on its left side. The box itself is made from a waterproof box<br />
produced by “Otter Box.” It has a clear top so the LCD screen can be easily seen while<br />
operating the ROV. The top is hinged and opens so the RCX can be popped in and out.<br />
The boxes are available directly through the company at www.otterbox.com.<br />
Figure 14: Top View and Front View of Control Box<br />
12<br />
The tether is made from two, six conductor Ethernet wires held together with zip<br />
ties. Each motor and each sensor needs two conductors, which add up to a total of twelve.<br />
The connections between the tether and a motor or sensor are sealed by being cast in 3M<br />
Scotchcast.<br />
UNDERWATER VIDEO CAMERA<br />
A small video camera is on the larger, Tiburon ROV. This is made from a cheap<br />
internet camera. This camera is ideal because all the circuitry is contained on one small<br />
circuit board. To waterproof the camera, it is cast in 3M Scotchcast in a LEGO mold to<br />
keep the LEGO compatibility. A flat lens is over the original camera lens to adjust for the<br />
light refraction from water to air.<br />
BUOYANCY<br />
A problem with taking LEGOs underwater is that they tend to trap air. This<br />
causes problems when the ROV goes deep and the air compresses. This means that if the<br />
ROV is slightly positively buoyant at the surface, it becomes negatively buoyant a few<br />
feet below. To help correct this problem, syntactic foam is used for the floatation inside<br />
the ROV’s foam pack, which is a hollow chamber on the top of the vehicle. Syntactic<br />
foam is most effective because it does not compress as the pressure increases underwater,<br />
and thus provides a constant amount of lift. To balance out the lift from the foam, weights<br />
are on the bottom of the ROV. The weights are made from shrink wrap filled with lead<br />
13<br />
shot. By putting a lot of weight on the bottom of the ROV, and a lot of floatation on the<br />
top, the center of gravity is lowered towards the bottom and the center of buoyancy is<br />
raised towards the top. This makes the ROV very stable and resistant to rolling over.<br />
Figure 15: Syntactic foam (white) inside the ROV<br />
The syntactic foam does not completely solve the problem of the ROV becoming<br />
negatively buoyant underwater. Additionally, the Ethernet cable used for the tether is<br />
negatively buoyant, so the farther it goes underwater, the more it makes the ROV sink.<br />
To totally solve the problem of the ROV sinking, syntactic foam chunks are attached to<br />
the tether to make it float. Through testing, it is determined that 0.63in3 of foam makes<br />
one foot of tether neutrally buoyant. To totally fix the problem of the air compressing<br />
inside the ROV and making it negatively buoyant, an increasing amount of foam is added<br />
along the tether from the ROV to the control box. This way the tether becomes more<br />
buoyant as the ROV goes deeper, balancing out the loss of lift from the compressed air<br />
inside the LEGOs. This keeps the ROV almost perfectly neutral at any depth.<br />
14<br />
RESULTS<br />
The result of this project is an ROV that is fully maneuverable in three<br />
dimensions in 0 to 29 feet of water. The ROV is powered solely by the RCX and is<br />
primarily made out of standard LEGO components. Additionally, it has the capability of<br />
performing autonomous functions, as in the case of monitoring the pressure sensor and<br />
adjusting its thrusters to hover. This ROV is very compact, containing a limited number<br />
of components, which makes it ideal to be produced as a kit.<br />
Figure 16: Finished ROV<br />
The ROV also has the ability to be used as a scientific tool because of its data<br />
collection capabilities. It can collect data to see changes over time, or compare data from<br />
two different sensors, as in the case of temperature versus depth. To test the ROV, two<br />
data collection programs were written; one to see how the pressure changes over one<br />
minute of time and one to compare temperature versus pressure. Another useful feature of<br />
ROBOLAB is that it can plot data directly, or export it into a spreadsheet program like<br />
15<br />
Microsoft Excel. Both tests were conducted in the MBARI test tank. The results can be<br />
seen in the figures below.<br />
Figure 17: Pressure versus Time During One Minute of Hovering<br />
(Y axis labeled “Light” because of pressure sensor programmed as light sensor)<br />
Figure 18: Temperature versus Pressure (graphed in Excell)<br />
Temperature vs Pressure<br />
66<br />
67<br />
68<br />
69<br />
70<br />
71<br />
72<br />
0 20 40 60 80 100 120<br />
Pressure (Counts)<br />
Temperature (F)<br />
Temperature<br />
(Fahrenheit)<br />
16<br />
The other ROV built is a model of Tiburon. This ROV differs from the other one<br />
in that it has the on-board video camera, ducted thruster housings, and is much bigger.<br />
Although this ROV looks a lot more appealing, it doesn’t perform as well in the water. It<br />
is not powerful enough to easily move vertically. The ducted thruster housings are not<br />
efficient because axel supports in them block too much water flow. This problem can be<br />
easily solved by supporting the axel on only one side, and making the supports much<br />
thinner. With some redesign, the thruster housings should be very effective. Their<br />
compatibility with other LEGOs makes them desirable to put in a kit. The underwater<br />
video camera works very well, even with no additional light source on board the ROV.<br />
Figure 17: Finished Tiburon ROV<br />
CONCLUSIONS/RECOMMENDATIONS<br />
This project proved that a LEGO ROV can be built primarily with standard<br />
LEGO components and be powered only by the RCX. The ROV is capable of being<br />
controlled in three dimensions and operating to a depth of 29 feet. It also has the power to<br />
perform autonomous functions, such as hovering and data collection. The small ROV<br />
could easily be built in a classroom. All the custom parts were made from common<br />
17<br />
materials with no special tools. If the ROV were to be made in a classroom, I would<br />
recommend a middle school or high school class to do it because of the dexterity and<br />
dangerous tools needed to make some of the parts. Most importantly, the ROV is fun!<br />
People of all ages helped test it, and everyone, from toddlers to sixty year olds, loved it.<br />
If LEGO decided to produce the ROV as a kit, I would recommend they stick to a<br />
design closer to the small ROV because it is a much simpler package with significantly<br />
fewer parts than the Tiburon ROV. Ideally, the kit would be a combination of both<br />
ROVs, with a low number of pieces like the smaller one, but with the shape and feel of<br />
Tiburon with the thruster housing “bricks.” I would also recommend a neutral tether with<br />
extra floatation that can be clipped on if necessary. Floatation and weighted “bricks”<br />
should be part of the kit to make construction easier. Any combination of the ROVs<br />
comprising a kit would undoubtedly be successful because taking MindStorms<br />
underwater would open up numerous learning and playing possibilities.<br />
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS<br />
I would like to thank the following people for their help in making this project<br />
possible: Paul McGill, Bill Kirkwood, Larry Bird, John Ferreira, Hans Thomas, Mark<br />
Sibenac, Drew Gashler, Nicole Tervalon, Clark Brecht, Zorba Pickerill, Carolyn Todd,<br />
Craig Okuda, Jim Scholfield, Farley Shane, Cindy Hanrahan, George Matsumoto, Chris<br />
Rogers, and Todd Walsh.<br />
18<br />
References:<br />
Bohm, H.,V. Jensen (1999). Build Your Own Underwater Robot and Other Wet Projects.<br />
Westcoast Words<br />
Gasperi, M. (1998). MindStorms RCX Sensor Input Page.</p>
<p>http://www.alynk.com/usr/gasperi/lego.htm</p>
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			<media:title type="html">howardelliot</media:title>
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		<title>To learn about how the Stampeders built their own boats in order to complete the final 500 miles of the journey to Dawson city.</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/to-learn-about-how-the-stampeders-built-their-own-boats-in-order-to-complete-the-final-500-miles-of-the-journey-to-dawson-city/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:45:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Arctic Boats]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Building Boats]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Title: Building Boats Objective: To learn about how the Stampeders built their own boats in order to complete the final 500 miles of the journey to Dawson city. Materials: Part One: Graph paper Part Two: Model Boat Building Materials (popsicle sticks, cardboard, glue, milk cartons, fabric, dowels, tape, string, etc.) Time: 2 hours Lesson Description: [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=7&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Title: Building Boats<br />
Objective: To learn about how the Stampeders built their own boats in order to complete the final 500 miles of the journey to Dawson city.<br />
Materials:<br />
Part One: Graph paper<br />
Part Two: Model Boat Building Materials (popsicle sticks, cardboard, glue, milk cartons, fabric, dowels, tape, string, etc.)<br />
Time: 2 hours<br />
Lesson Description:<br />
1. Begin by saying:<br />
We’ve finally made it over the mountains. The good news is we don’t have to walk any more! The bad news there is a lake and 500 miles of river between us and Dawson City, the “City of Gold,” and either we build our own boat or hire someone to build us a boat.<br />
2. Read the following excerpt from Gold! The Klondike Adventure:<br />
The Dyea and Skagway trails ended at adjoining mountain lakes whose emerald-green waters fed into the Yukon. No boats waited along the shores of Lake Lindeman or nearby Lake Bennett to carry passengers to the Klondike. It was up to each man to build his own vessel and find his way 500 miles downriver to Dawson…By the spring of 1898, 30,000 people were camped along the frozen lakes at the foot of the passes. In just a few months the Stampeders had transformed this once-quiet valley into a bustling boat-building center. Acres of stumps stood where forests had once grown. (p. 47, Ray)<br />
Continue by telling your class: 109<br />
The lake is still frozen but we need to be ready to go as soon as the ice breaks. If we build our own boats we’ll need to make our own boards. That requires a long and tiring process call whipsawing. First one places a fresh cut log on a raised platform called a sawpit. Then begins the destruction of many a good friendship. One partner stands on the top of the sawpit while the other partner stands below. Each hold the end of a long, jagged-tooth saw and the fun begins. The partners have to work in perfect synchronicity pushing and pulling the saw. With each stroke of the saw the partner below gets a face full of sawdust while the person on top quickly developed an aching back from leaning over. Partners often yelled and cursed one-another convinced the other wasn’t doing his share of the work.<br />
In class today we are gong to build models of the boats we plan to take down the river. First we have to design our boats. Think about the type of boat you could build that would withstand 500 miles of travel through white water rapids, flat open lakes, carry 2,000 pounds of gear, and be easy to build.<br />
Part One: Designing the boats<br />
1. Ask your students what are some features they might want to include in their boat design? Record some of the student ideas. Then pass out graph paper to the students.<br />
2. Explain they’ll need to draw two perspectives of the boat&#8212;a top view and a side view. They’ll want to make certain to design their boat to be symmetrical and include a line of symmetry in the design.<br />
After students have had a chance to finish their designs move onto Part Two. (Part One is usually done on one day and Part Two is started the next.)<br />
Part Two: Building the boats<br />
1. Begin by saying:<br />
You’ve had a chance to design your boats. Today we try to build them.<br />
2. Show the students where the materials are laid out. You may want to assure your students that their model may not reflect their design. Often times the materials available don’t allow for exact replicas of the designs.<br />
110<br />
Students who finish early can create the supplies to load on the boats.<br />
111</p>
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		<title>Building an Arctic Boat</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/building-an-arctic-boat/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:37:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Arctic Boats]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Scientific American Frontiers . Coming to America . Teaching Guide . Building an Arctic Boat &#8211; High School. PDF &#124; PBS Activity 1: Grades 9-12 Building an Arctic Boat An umiak (oo-mee-ak) is an open arctic boat that has been used since earliest times by the Inuit. Its frame is constructed of thin pieces of [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=5&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Scientific American Frontiers . Coming to America . Teaching Guide . Building an Arctic Boat &#8211; High School. PDF | PBS<br />
Activity 1: Grades 9-12<br />
Building an Arctic Boat<br />
An umiak (oo-mee-ak) is an open arctic boat that has<br />
been used since earliest times by the Inuit. Its frame is<br />
constructed of thin pieces of wood (called stringers) that<br />
are lashed together. This type of construction produces a<br />
flexible structure that easily withstands the force of<br />
crashing waves. The stringers are covered by seal or<br />
walrus skin. Known as a family boat, or &#8220;women&#8217;s boat,&#8221;<br />
the umiak has traditionally been used to transport all<br />
sorts of things, including weapons, clothing, people,<br />
dogs, sleds and tents.<br />
This activity page will offer:<br />
l A hands-on experience in shaping a model umiak hull<br />
l An exploration of boat balance<br />
l An understanding of how ballast helps keep a boat upright<br />
Weighed Down<br />
Not only does the umiak have a large carrying capacity, but it is also<br />
extremely stable. This stability arises from its shape and low center of balance.<br />
To further increase stability, rocks are placed in the bottom of the hull. In this<br />
activity, you&#8217;ll observe how added weights can make a boat model less likely<br />
to capsize.<br />
Materials<br />
l Balsa wood<br />
l White glue<br />
l Tissue paper<br />
l Clay<br />
l Large nail or bolt<br />
l Bowl filled with water<br />
Scientific American Frontiers . Coming to America . Teaching Guide . Building an Arctic Boat &#8211; High School. PDF | PBS<br />
Procedure<br />
Part One &#8211; Building the Model<br />
1. Work in teams of two. Examine the frame of a model umiak shown here.<br />
2. Use stringers of balsa wood and white glue to construct this model<br />
frame. Let dry.<br />
3. When the frame has dried, cover it with tissue paper. Use a light coating<br />
of white glue to attach the paper to the frame. Let dry.<br />
4. When the covering is dry, you can waterproof the paper by painting it<br />
with a very dilute solution of white glue. Let dry overnight.<br />
Part Two &#8211; Exploring Stability<br />
1. Place your model boat into a bowl filled with water. Observe how it<br />
floats.<br />
2. Remove the model from the bowl. Secure a large lump of clay to one of<br />
the sides of the boat. Place the boat back in the bowl. What happens<br />
now?<br />
3. Place a large nail or bolt in the bottom of the hull. How does this added<br />
weight affect the stability of the boat?<br />
Questions<br />
1. Although a block of aluminum sinks, the boat you shaped from<br />
aluminum foil floated. Explain.<br />
2. What happened when the lump of clay was added to the side of the<br />
boat?<br />
3. How did the extra weight placed in the bottom of the hull affect the<br />
boat?<br />
Inquiry Extension<br />
How does the amount of weight placed in the hull affect stability? Can you add<br />
too much weight? Develop a strategy for inquiry that would explore this<br />
variable. Share your design with your instructor. With your instructor&#8217;s<br />
permission, perform your investigation.<br />
Fictional Log<br />
Think back to the earliest sailors of umiaks. Suppose you were a village elder<br />
who recorded the travels of this prehistoric band. Write a fictional account of<br />
your journey as you crossed the Atlantic Ocean along the edge of the polar ice<br />
sheet. Make sure that you create this essay through the eyes and<br />
understanding of an individual who lived more than 10,000 years ago!<br />
Western and Eastern Versions<br />
There are two distinct types of umiaks. The Western Arctic umiak is a<br />
streamlined slender boat often used in hunting. The Eastern Arctic umiak is a<br />
larger, bulkier boat used mostly in transportation of goods, homes and<br />
families. Research the differences in these boats and construct a model of each<br />
Scientific American Frontiers . Coming to America . Teaching Guide . Building an Arctic Boat &#8211; High School. PDF | PBS<br />
type. Use these models to compare and contrast the differences in use and<br />
design.<br />
Row, Paddle or Sail?<br />
Prior to the advent of outboard engines, umiaks could be propelled in several<br />
ways. Depending on the situation, the boat could be rowed, paddled or sailed.<br />
Each type of propulsion had advantages and disadvantages. Compare and<br />
contrast these different ways of propelling the boat. What situations would<br />
warrant the use of each method? Which method of propulsion was best used to<br />
travel great distances? Why?<br />
Web Connection<br />
Umiak Construction and Form</p>
<p>http://www.rockisland.com/~kyak/umicon.html</p>
<p>The site offers an overview of umiak form and construction.<br />
Good Old Boat: Is Your Boat Stable?</p>
<p>http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/stability.htm</p>
<p>This site offers an introduction to boat stability that explores the shape and<br />
design of typical sailboat hulls.<br />
Native Watercraft: Umiaks</p>
<p>http://www.civilization.ca/aborig/watercraft/wau03eng.html</p>
<p>This site includes illustrations of different types of umiaks.<br />
Academic Advisors for this Guide:<br />
Suzanne Panico, Science Teacher Mentor, Cambridge Public Schools, Cambridge, MA<br />
Anne E. Jones, Science Department, Wayland Middle School, Wayland, MA<br />
Gary Pinkall, Middle School Science Teacher, Great Bend Public Schools, Great Bend, KS<br />
Cam Bennet Physics/Math Instructor Dauphin Regional Comprehensive Secondary School<br />
Dauphin, MB Canada<br />
Scientific American Frontiers . Coming to America . Teaching Guide . Building an Arctic Boat &#8211; High School. PDF | PBS<br />
&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;<br />
Activity 1: Grades 9-12<br />
Building an Arctic Boat<br />
ANSWERS<br />
Part Two &#8211; Exploring Stability<br />
1. Place your model boat into a bowl filled with water. Observe how it floats.<br />
2. Remove the model from the bowl. Secure a large lump of clay to one of<br />
the sides of the boat. Place the boat back in the bowl. What happens<br />
now?<br />
(The boat capsizes and sinks.)<br />
3. Place a large nail or bolt in the bottom of the hull. How does this added<br />
weight affect the stability of the boat?<br />
(It increases the model&#8217;s stability.)<br />
Questions<br />
1. Although a block of aluminum sinks, the boat you shaped from aluminum<br />
foil floated. Explain.<br />
(The design of the hull displaced enough water to produce a<br />
buoyant force that was greater than the weight of the boat.)<br />
2. What happened when the lump of clay was added to the side of the boat?<br />
(The boat became unstable and tipped over.)<br />
3. How did the extra weight placed in the bottom of the hull affect the boat?<br />
(It increased the model&#8217;s stability, and the boat was less likely to<br />
tip.)</p>
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		<title>Wooden Boat News</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/wooden-boat-news/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:30:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Boat Modeling News]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Wooden Boat News The Winterton Boat Building and Community Museum Newsletter September 2006 Planning For Our Future The Winterton Boat Building Museum has been mandated to preserve and exhibit the design, construction and use of small inshore fishing boats that were so much apart of pre-confederation life in Winterton. This work has been possible through [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=4&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wooden Boat News<br />
The Winterton Boat Building and Community Museum Newsletter<br />
September 2006<br />
Planning For Our Future<br />
The Winterton Boat Building Museum has been mandated to preserve and exhibit the design, construction and use of small inshore fishing boats that were so much apart of pre-confederation life in Winterton. This work has been possible through the efforts and collaboration of various individuals spanning a period of over 20 years. Today, because of the extensive work of folklorist David A. Taylor, committed community volunteers, and through the donations of artifacts and information from town residents, much of the knowledge of Winterton boats and boat building is being preserved.<br />
Now the WBBCM has set its sights on a larger goal. The museum wishes to develop a Provincial focus and capture the history of wooden boats throughout Newfoundland and Labrador. The museum wants to become the center of wooden boat building knowledge and history in the Province. A tale that tells the story of not only the Winterton Rodney, but also of the Gander River Boat, the South Coast Dory, the MicMac Canoe, and of other traditional wooden boats from regions all over the Province. This will be accomplished through a dynamic program, which incorporates boat collection and construction activities, interpretive exhibits, innovative programming, and partnering with like-minded groups and individuals. It is imperative that the knowledge of traditional wooden boats and boat building in Newfoundland and Labrador be preserved for future generations.<br />
The Winterton Heritage Advisory Board, together with the Town of Winterton is poised to become the center for the collection and preservation of this vital piece of our Province’s heritage. With the help of ACOA and ITRD we have begun to action the above; Planning Resources Inc. has completed Phase 1 of our Long Term Growth Framework, and we are now half way through Phase 2, which will outline an action plan to go forward, based on the above concepts.<br />
Note: We have repeated this article from our previous newsletter because we have updated our database of contacts and felt this article would be interest to the many new friends of the Museum.<br />
Boat Builders of Newfoundland and Labrador<br />
In Newfoundland and Labrador, where fishing and water-borne transportation have always been of great importance, boats represent an integral part of the culture. Even though boat building and boat use has been widespread in the Province, little information has been collected and preserved about the details of boat building and boat builders. We want to establish a network of contacts to assist in this collection and preservation; if you are a traditional wooden boat builder, (either full size or model) know of someone who is or was, or, if you are just an interested individual, please contact us. (see contact information at the end)<br />
Over the past several years many individuals have expressed sincere interest in what we are doing and offered their assistance and support. If we have not taken advantage of the offers it is not because you have been forgotten or overlooked but because we have been busy with funding and other issues which are needed to move this mammoth project forward. We anticipate by late fall and into 2007, we will be reaching out by various means, including this newsletter, for contributions of time, information, ideas etc; and we are sure we will be able to count on your support.<br />
Boat Building in Winterton<br />
We are pleased to announce the republication of Boat Building in Winterton, Trinity Bay, Newfoundland by David A. Taylor. This book is Dr. Taylor’s Master of Arts in Folklore thesis on traditional boat building and the boat builders of Winterton. This book maybe purchased by money order from the museum at a cost of $30.00 CAN plus shipping and handling. Postage and handling rates are available on our website or by calling our office.<br />
Intangible Heritage Conference<br />
The Winterton Boat Building and Community Museum was invited to take part in the Celebrating Our Living Heritage Conference, which took place from June 7-10, 2006 at Memorial University of Newfoundland. During the conference, Frank French gave a short presentation about how we are preserving traditional boat building skills at the museum and our plans for the future. As well, Fred and Melvin Green demonstrated some traditional boat building skills through the partial completion of a rodney. During this conference we met many people who are interested in working with us to preserve traditional boat building in our Province.<br />
CBC Crosstalk<br />
The museum will be participating in CBC Radio’s Crosstalk. Anne Budgell will be interviewing Fred, Melvin, Frank and Dr. David Taylor on September 15 at 1:30 pm Newfoundland Time. If you would like to phone in and ask a question or make a comment on traditional boat building, the number in St. John’s is 722-7111 or 1-800-563-8255 in Canada and the U.S. If you miss the live broadcast you can listen to it on the web at www.cbc.ca/radionoonnl/ by clicking the media button and then clicking listen live.<br />
Inshore Fishing Grounds Research<br />
Patty Wells, a PhD student in the Archaeology Unit at Memorial University, will be conducting research on the inshore fishing grounds in the Winterton area. Through interviews with fishermen she will document the location of markers, fishing grounds, and trap berths. These are important locations that are a part of how Newfoundlanders of European decent understood or made their particular seascape. Wells believes that the seascape is not simply the sum of its physiological characteristics, but that it is constructed or understood in particular ways by members of a culture. This is determined by peoples’ traditions and how they use or occupy the sea.<br />
Seascapes have meaning, memory and legend associated with them; they can be experienced in different ways by different groups, and the subtleties of peoples’ knowledge of seascapes lend them a particular character. By understanding how modern inshore fishermen create their seascapes, Wells wishes to explore models for how prehistoric peoples in Newfoundland may<br />
have similarly constructed their cultural seascapes. This research will aid in her interpretation of Dorset Palaeoeskimo (ca 2000-1200 years ago) material culture in Newfoundland. Furthermore, with the essential end of the inshore fishery, the traditional nature and knowledge of these places in the seascape will disappear as fewer people visit and depend upon them for their livelihood. The recording of principal locations in the seascape will ensure the retention of this important aspect of Newfoundland’s intangible heritage.<br />
Winterton Boat Building and Community Museum<br />
P.O. Box 59<br />
Winterton, NL<br />
A0B 3M0<br />
Phone: (709) 583-2044<br />
Fax: (709) 583-2099<br />
www.woodenboat.ca<br />
wintertonmuseum@persona.ca</p>
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		<title>BOATBUILDING &#8211; Produce a Half Model of a Small Craft to Scale</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/boatbuilding-produce-a-half-model-of-a-small-craft-to-scale/</link>
		<comments>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/boatbuilding-produce-a-half-model-of-a-small-craft-to-scale/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 16:26:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Build Half a Model]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[10841 version 4 21-Apr-04 1 of 4 BOATBUILDING Produce a half-model of a small craft to scale  New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2004 level: 4 credit: 10 final date for comment: March 2005 expiry date: December 2006 sub-field: Boating Industries purpose: People credited with this unit standard are able to prepare for the production of [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=3&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>10841 version 4<br />
21-Apr-04<br />
1 of 4<br />
BOATBUILDING<br />
Produce a half-model of a small craft to<br />
scale<br />
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2004<br />
level: 4<br />
credit: 10<br />
final date for comment: March 2005<br />
expiry date: December 2006<br />
sub-field: Boating Industries<br />
purpose: People credited with this unit standard are able to prepare<br />
for the production of a small craft to scale; produce<br />
templates to scale; and manufacture the half-model.<br />
They are able to work from a supplied design in the form of<br />
drawings and offsets.<br />
entry information: Recommended: Unit 10840, Draw full sized hulls, decks, and<br />
superstructures from corrected offsets, or demonstrate<br />
equivalent knowledge and skills.<br />
accreditation option: Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and<br />
industry.<br />
moderation option: A centrally established and directed external moderation<br />
system has been set up by the Boating Industry Training<br />
Organisation.<br />
special notes: 1 Definitions<br />
small craft is a boat of up to eight metres in length<br />
when built full size;<br />
half-model is a model split vertically from bow to stern.<br />
2 Range: scale &#8211; 1:10 or less;<br />
craft &#8211; deck, superstructure, hull, rudder,<br />
keel;<br />
hull &#8211; hard chined or round bilged.<br />
10841 version 4<br />
21-Apr-04<br />
2 of 4<br />
BOATBUILDING<br />
Produce a half-model of a small craft to<br />
scale<br />
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2004<br />
3 The following apply to the performance of all elements<br />
of this unit standard:<br />
a All required equipment must be set up, started up,<br />
operated, and shut down in accordance with the<br />
manufacturer’s and organisation’s documented<br />
procedures;<br />
b All work practices must meet recognised codes of<br />
practice and documented worksite health and<br />
safety procedures for personal, product, and<br />
worksite health and safety, and must meet the<br />
obligations of current legislation, including the<br />
Health and Safety in Employment Act 1992, and<br />
its subsequent and delegated legislation.<br />
4 This unit standard can be assessed off job.<br />
Elements and Performance Criteria<br />
element 1<br />
Prepare for the production of a small craft to scale.<br />
performance criteria<br />
1.1 Interpretation of supplied drawings and offsets establishes datum lines to<br />
design requirements.<br />
Range: datum lines &#8211; centre line, water lines, baselines.<br />
1.2 Selection of tools, and equipment enables job specifications to be achieved.<br />
10841 version 4<br />
21-Apr-04<br />
3 of 4<br />
BOATBUILDING<br />
Produce a half-model of a small craft to<br />
scale<br />
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2004<br />
1.3 Selection of materials for templates and finished model enables job<br />
specifications to be achieved.<br />
Range: template materials &#8211; timber and/or metal and/or composites.<br />
Evidence is required for at least one.<br />
examples of finished model materials include but are not limited to<br />
- solid timber, reconstituted timber, metal, composites (including<br />
foam plastic).<br />
1.4 Scale selection matches job requirements.<br />
element 2<br />
Produce templates to scale.<br />
performance criteria<br />
2.1 Produced templates are dimensioned to the selected scale.<br />
2.2 Vertical station templates are evenly-spaced and correspond to within 0.25<br />
millimetres of fair lines<br />
Range: at least four vertical templates.<br />
2.3 Horizontal templates correspond to within 0.25 millimetres of fair lines, and are<br />
horizontal at the water line.<br />
Range: at least one horizontal template.<br />
element 3<br />
Manufacture the half-model.<br />
performance criteria<br />
3.1 The water line is marked in accordance with design requirements.<br />
3.2 The model’s external shape corresponds to within 0.25 millimetres of<br />
templates.<br />
10841 version 4<br />
21-Apr-04<br />
4 of 4<br />
BOATBUILDING<br />
Produce a half-model of a small craft to<br />
scale<br />
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2004<br />
3.3 Faired lines cross grid lines in all three views at the same points.<br />
3.4 The completed model’s bow points in the specified direction.<br />
Comments on this unit standard<br />
Please contact the Boating Industry Training Organisation training@bia.org.nz if you wish<br />
to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard.<br />
Please Note<br />
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority or a delegated interinstitutional<br />
body before they can register credits from assessment against unit standards<br />
or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.<br />
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before<br />
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.<br />
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit<br />
standards must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.<br />
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this<br />
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The<br />
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for providers wishing<br />
to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for tutors<br />
and assessors, and special resource requirements.<br />
This unit standard is covered by AMAP 0136 which can be accessed at</p>
<p>http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/site/framework/search.html.</p>
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		<title>Hello world!</title>
		<link>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/hello-world/</link>
		<comments>http://modelboats.wordpress.com/2008/01/04/hello-world/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jan 2008 15:42:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>howardelliot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Welcome to WordPress.com. This is your first post. Edit or delete it and start blogging!<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=modelboats.wordpress.com&amp;blog=2446671&amp;post=1&amp;subd=modelboats&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to <a href="http://wordpress.com/">WordPress.com</a>. This is your first post. Edit or delete it and start blogging!</p>
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